Fashion Week-Stephen Burrows-Beauty Breakdown

CFDA Lifetime Achievement Winner, Stephen Burrows has been creating lively, colorful prints and patterns for years. He's been an important staple in the fashion industry for several decades and mingled and partied with legend after legend. He was friends with Andy Warhol, dressed Cher and hung out regularly at Studio 54 at the height of it's disco days. This season he created a collection that showed off his traditionally vivid designs and knack for perfectly cut jersey dresses. Burrows said he looked at "Gustav Klimt and Tiffany Lamps" as the inspiration for his latest collection. His dresses had wonderfully abstract prints, rich colors and classic silhouettes. He also showed a variety of other styles like ultra-wide wool trousers, fur vests, black leather jackets and chunky cable sweaters.

Makeup Inspiration: The inspiration for the makeup was based on the look and feel of Biba-the iconic European fashion label and mecca in the 1960-70’s era. Head makeup artist, Quinn Murphy, said he wanted to enhance the style of the clothing and overall youthfulness and individuality of the time. The look was strong but not heavy. Murphy made the look special by balancing a smokey eye with red lips. He did this by creating a layered effect on the shadows. The lips were modern and bright.

FACE: He pared down the skin by making it youthful and fresh. He used minimal concealer and a minimal amount of Armani Luminous Silk Foundation. He used a Beauty Blender Sponge to make the foundation look as sheer as possible. He skipped the blush altogether to not overpower the face with color. After setting the skin with powder he added a dot of moisturizer to the cheekbone, bridge of nose, forehead and chin to add a youthful glow.

EYES: Murphy said the eyes were a “smoldering tornado of black charcoal shadow, more undone and bohemian than a traditional smokey eye.”. He applied a small amount of black cream shadow, Black Flash Color by Make Up For Ever, from the lash line to the brow. He then used a black Armani eye pencil to line the inner rim and top of the lash line and smudged it. He then took a matte black eye shadow with a sponge tip applicator and lightly dotted the colors around the eye. He used black eye shadow on the lower lash line and blended further with an invisible loose powder. Finally he brushed on Armani Maestro Mascara on the lashes. By using small amounts of the shadows he was able to layer and build the look.

LIPS: Murphy chose a moist red lip to complete the look. He used Ruby Woo by M.A.C. to the edge of the natural lip line and the applied a tinted lip balm (Benefit Benetint Lip Balm SPF 15) to give moisture without being glossy. The softer red lip countered the deepness of the dramatic charcoal matte eye.

HAIR: Hairstylist Michael Deunas created a modern, chic donut shape (an alternative to the classic bun) for the hair. "The modern shape added simplicity and beauty to Stephen Burrows collection." he said. He sectioned the hair off at the base of the neck horizontally across. He sprayed each section with OSIS Flatliner and a round brushing smooth and then flat ironed each section smooth. He brushed the hair into a tight ponytail on the right side behind the ear. Denunas took OSIS Wax and smoothed it over each ponytail and wrapped the ends of the hair with a hair doodle and rolled it to the head so the hair was wrapped around it. He then snapped the hair doodle into a donut shape and spread the tightly wrapped hair around it. Deunas then took small hairpins and secured the hair doodle to the head. Finally, he finished with OSIS Elastic Hairspray and OSIS Air Pomade.